Sports Jacket

A: The shoulder seam should end where your natural shoulder ends. You shouldn't see dimpling or pulling when standing naturally, and the shoulder line should create a clean slope from neck to arm. If you see an obvious break or divot at the shoulder, the fit is incorrect.

A: Yes, a collar gap can often be fixed by a skilled tailor. This alteration typically involves adjusting the collar and upper back area to draw the jacket closer to your neck. However, if the gap results from poor overall fit, a complete size change might be necessary.

A: A properly fitted jacket should cover your seat and allow you to cup your fingers under the hem when standing naturally. For sport coats, a slightly shorter length can work, but should still provide adequate coverage. Avoid extremely short lengths that expose your seat.

A: This depends on your body type and intended use. If you have sloping shoulders, padding can provide better structure. For those with broader shoulders or who prefer a more casual look, natural shoulders work well. Business suits traditionally feature light padding for a crisp appearance.

A: Generally, aim to show about 1/4 to 1/2 inch of shirt cuff. This can vary based on personal preference, with some preferring up to 3/4 inch. When having alterations done, wear your preferred dress shirt to ensure proper sleeve length.

A: Changing the buttons offers the simplest way to update a jacket's appearance. Switching from plain buttons to horn buttons can make a formal jacket more casual, while pearl buttons can give summer jackets a new character. This alteration is relatively inexpensive and quick.

A: Pocket flare usually indicates the jacket is too tight through the hips. If you can't size up, a tailor might be able to let out the side seams slightly. For new purchases, ensure you can sit comfortably without the pockets splaying open.